White woven black claw at the neck: Paul Poiret.
5, Rue Auber. PARIS
Gift of Madame René Boivin, sister of Paul Poiret 1905
Burgundy sheet, black silk with flower embroidery in multicolored silk threads of Chinese origin. Lining in shaped ivory silk; applications of Chinese medallions in burgundy cloth. GAL1963.30.3
Palais Galliera, City of Paris Fashion Museum
This major piece, witness to the pioneering role played by Paul Poiret, belonged to Jeanne Boivin (1871-1959), the dressmaker's older sister. In his memoirs, he recounts the bad reception which was reserved for the coat he had just finished, in 1901-1903, at Worth's. "It was a large square kimono in black cloth, edged with a bias of black satin; the sleeves were wide, down to the bottom and finished with embroidery facings like the sleeves of Chinese coats. Under the title "Confucius", it was successfully taken up shortly after the installation of Paul Poiret 5, rue Auber, in September 1903.
The chronology is specified by a photograph of the actress Lillie Langtry published in the Figaro Modes of February 15, 1905 and an illustration of the Grandes Modes of Paris of March 1905 on which one reads the title "Reverend".
Simplicity and flowing lines contrast with the still tight-fitting dress by Lillie Langtry. Chinese influences are expressed through the title "Confucius", the embroidery on the collar and the decoration of the medallions.
Notice author: Sophie Grossiord