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EGIDIO SCAIONI (English version)


The Palais Galliera has the largest collection of images by photographer Egidio Scaioni: 534 original color and black and white prints. The majority come from the fashion house Lucien Lelong, but the houses Maggy Rouff, Agnès, Piguet, Le Monnier and Jenny are also represented for the years 1920-1930. The museum also preserves a fine example of his production from the 1950s for Jacques Heim. A gift from Madame Scaioni of color and black and white prints from the 1920s to 1930s entered the museum in 2018. In 2019, a new set was added to this exceptional collection in terms of its quality and number. EGIDIO SCAIONI Born October 11, 1894 in Milan, Egidio Scaioni studied business and then, passionate about photography, moved to Paris in the early 1920s. He worked intensively for fashion and advertising, publishing in the biggest magazines. of fashion and collaborating with great couturiers in particular Maggy Rouff and especially Lucien Lelong to whom he is very close. In the early 1930s he set up his studio at 15 rue Malebranche in the 5th arrondissement in Paris. He stopped during the war and resumed his activity as a fashion photographer until the mid-1950s, notably for Jacques Heim. At the same time, he produced many portraits. He then abandoned fashion photography to devote himself to publishing works of art, founding Editions de Varenne. Edigio Scaioni died in Paris on March 30, 1966. From the mid-1920s Egidio Scaioni’s style is perfectly identifiable: he works with lighting with a rigorous and modernist aesthetic inspired by E Steichen. His geometric decorations influenced by the decorative arts are his signature. They go wonderfully with the fashion of the 1920s or with the youth and sports collections of Lucien Lelong. In the 1930s his images displayed a sobriety and elegance that highlight the sophisticated cuts of the outfits. The prints made in his studio are always of very high plastic quality. Egidio Scaioni is also one of the pioneers of color photography which was introduced in magazines in the 1930s for advertising purposes and then via fashion photography. He is one of the few to use the Vivex process in Paris, a process operated between 1929 and 1939. Numerous articles in the United States praise his talent in this area. Egidio Scaioni's photographs are published in particular in the following French magazines: "Vogue", "Fémina", "Le Jardin des Modes", "L'Officiel de la Couture", "Excelsior Modes", as well as in numerous magazines German, Italian, American ("Harper's Bazaar", "Fortune" ...) A talented photographer with a strong presence on the Parisian and international photographic scene, Egidio Scaioni has so far been ignored by historical research. THE VIVEX PROCESS At the end of the 1920s, chemist D.A. Spencer adapted the carbro technique to the production of trichromic tests. This process makes it possible to produce a pigmentary trichrome print from the successive transfers of three primary images inscribed in a relief of pigmented gelatin. His company Color Photographs Ltd (London) also markets equipment for color photography; in particular trichromatic chambers ("one shot camera") which make it possible to simultaneously take the three monochrome images of a trichromatic selection. Due to the complexity associated with the implementation of the process and the cost resulting from the tests, the laboratory's clientele is made up almost exclusively of professional English or American photographers, working for advertising, reproduction of works of art, portrait and fashion. The process benefits from the good stability characteristics associated with pigment prints. Vivex marks the culmination of the trichrome pigmentary processes that will decline after the end of the war. Galliera Palace 10 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbia, Paris 16th, 75116 Paris 01 56 52 86 00

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